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Home » Archives for May 2011

Conflict Diamonds

Monday, May 30, 2011 by admin

When you purchase a diamond what do you look for? Price? Quality? Uniqueness? The next time you purchase a diamond you might want to give some thought to conflict diamonds.

Conflict diamonds are diamonds which get traded illegally in order to raise money to support conflicts. In Africa, some of the poorest countries often have conflicts where rebels cease control of all of the natural resources. This will often include the diamonds the country produces.

Although conflict diamonds have gotten a lot of bad press, estimates are that only 1% of all diamonds are conflict diamonds. In addition, De Beers participates in what is called the Kimberley Process. Rough diamonds that need to cross an international border are placed in specialized containers and are given a conflict free certificate which is contains a unique serial number.

In addition, De Beers has agreed to show evidence to each purchaser up the chain that the diamonds are conflict free. This occurs all the way from the beginning of the Kimberley process to the final sale to the consumer.

Because of these safeguards, customers who purchase from De Beers can focus on finding the perfect diamond jewelry for their needs without having to be concerned that they are unknowingly supporting conflicts in diamond producing countries.

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The Pink Diamond

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The pink diamond is the most precious of natural fancy colored diamonds. Naturally colored pink diamonds are so rare that most jewelers will never have an opportunity to see one. The rarity of the stone makes it one of the most expensive diamonds.

Natural colored pink diamonds vary in hue from purplish pink to orangey pink. The cause of the color variation is questionable, but it is believed to be a result of the stone’s atomic structure.

Pink diamonds were first found in India several hundred years ago. Small quantities were found in Brazil and South Africa, but the color was usually very pale with little saturation. In 1979, the Argyle diamond mine was discovered in Australia. The mine produces most of the world’s diamonds and supplies around 95 percent of all pink diamonds. The natural fancy pinks produced in the Argyle pipe are more saturated than those found in the past and are in greater quantity.

The increase in supply and availability of the pink diamond, coupled with celebrity ownership of the stones, have caused an increase in the demand as well as price of the precious gem. In the past, pink diamonds were only made available to royalty. Today anyone can own the stone but must pay a hefty price.

A growing trend in the jewelry industry has made it easier to own a colored diamond. Through irradiation and high heat treatments, plainer diamonds are transformed into fancy colored diamonds. Irradiated diamonds are much more affordable than natural fancy colors and just as beautiful.

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The Yellow Diamond

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Yellow is one of the most common colors found in diamonds. Yellow diamonds range from very pale yellow to vivid fancy yellow depending on the quantity of nitrogen atoms absorbed during the crystallization phase.

Most diamonds are faint or light yellow. These stones are the most affordable diamonds and are becoming more and more popular because of their warm coloring and their ability to blend nicely with white diamonds and white gold.

Vivid fancy yellow diamonds, as like any fancy colored diamond, are rare and rather expensive. One of the largest known yellow diamonds is the Tiffany Diamond. Discovered in a South African mine, this famous gem weighed almost 280 carats before being cut into a 128 carat stone.

About 25 percent of the world’s largest and most famous diamonds are yellow, but only a few are fancy vivid yellow. Because of the rarity of vivid yellow stones, color enhancement treatments are often performed to meet the demands for these beautiful gems. Color enhanced yellow diamonds are more affordable than natural fancy stones and much easier to find.

Laboratory grown fancy yellow diamonds are also growing in popularity. Conditions similar to those found beneath the earth’s surface are recreated in a lab, producing gem-quality colored diamonds in just days.

Yellow diamonds are found in mines worldwide but most often come from South America or South Africa. Only one out of every 1000 diamonds is a fancy colored diamond. The occurrence of a natural vivid yellow diamond is even more rare.

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The Blue Diamond

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The blue diamond gets its color from the boron in its composition. They are mined in Australia and South Africa, and along with the “red” diamond are the most rare and valuable of the colored diamonds. A blue diamond can cost as much as $100,000 to $250,000 per carat, depending on clarity, color, and size.

The most well known of all the blue diamonds is the “Hope Diamond”. Its weight is reported to be 45.52 carats and is classified as a type IIb. diamond. Its current home is in the Smithsonian Institute where it is one of the prime attractions. It is cut in the cushion shape, otherwise known as the pillow cut. It is estimated that the Hope Diamond is worth over $215 million, but it is doubtful a buyer could easily be found due to its turbulent history. The diamond is said to be cursed, and many of its previous owners have not fared very well at all after it came into their possession. It is said to glow with an eerie glow when exposed to ultraviolet light; a fact that only adds to its mystical quality.

The name diamond is derived from the Greek word “adamas” meaning invincible. It is interesting to note that the first diamonds were not mined, but found along river beds. These sparkling crystals were the source of many legends and myths. They were thought to be poisonous in some cultures due to their soft fluorescence. Some colors including the blue diamond were thought to hold magical power, and were sometimes swallowed to help cure ailments and heal wounds.

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The Green Diamond

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Green diamonds, when they are natural, are not only highly sought but very rare. The green diamonds in light hues are not of exceptional value, but the color grades known as “fancy intense” and “fancy vivid” green are quite valuable. The fancy vivid grade will usually be valued at twice the value of the fancy intense.

The most famous of the green diamond family is the Dresden Diamond which got its name from the German city where it had been on display from 1768 to 1942. It weighed in at 40.70 carats and has a vibrant green apple coloring that it got from coming into contact with some amount of radioactivity. It is cut in an irregular pear shaped, and like another famous diamond, The Hope Diamond, the Dresden Diamond has a colorful past. It is reported that the diamond was purchased in 1743 by Frederick Augustus II of Saxony for what would be today a mere $150,000.

Green diamonds have been discovered in Africa, South America, and Asia. A green diamond can be cut into any shape you desire, but it is important to note that the color will often change and lose intensity, when it is cut or when it is exposed to heat. Since natural green diamonds are so rare, Certificates of Authenticity usually bring their prices up considerably. The green diamond is sometimes called “the chameleon diamond” because it color can change so dramatically. It is the ratio of nitrogen atoms, which the diamond may or may not contain during their creation, that gives them their unusual hue, and accounts for their extreme rarity.

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The Brown Diamond

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Brown colored diamonds vary greatly in their shade and hue. They are typically less expensive than other colored diamonds because there is not as great of an appeal to the average consumer. However, there has been an increase in sales recently when the diamonds were marketed as “cognac” or “champagne” colored. The Argyle diamond mine is Australia is the leading producer of brown diamonds.

Brown colored diamonds are considered to be a Type 1 diamond. When they are created, they absorb a noticeable amount of nitrogen atoms which actually absorb blue light. The nitrogen atoms cluster with the carbon lattice and can start off as a pale yellow color. As the nitrogen atoms spread out they absorb green light to appear to be a darker hue of yellow, making them seem brown, light orange, or greenish in appearance.

One of the most famous golden brown diamonds is The Great Chrysanthemum diamond. If was found in the South African diamond minds at a weight of 198.28 carats. Julius Cohen bought the diamond and had it cut into a pear shape. Now The Great Chrysanthemum diamond weights 104.15 carats, and has 189 facets. It is mounted as a central stone of a stunning yellow gold necklace which is made of 410 oval and marquise shaped diamonds. As a rough stone it was thought to be a light brown but after cutting the stone it became golden brown with hues or burnt orange and sienna. It was exhibited in many diamond stores around the world, and has been featured in many diamond museum exhibits. Julius Cohen later sold it to a foreign buyer for an undisclosed amount.

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The Orange Diamond

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For every 10,000 diamonds mined in the world, only one will come out being a colored diamond. This is what makes them so rare, and so hard to obtain. The orange colored diamond is considered to be a fancy diamond, made naturally through the presence of nitrogen and carbon lattice. It has the best of the rare red colored diamond and the brilliance of the yellow colored diamond, so when you see it through the naked eye it looks orange. When you see the diamond, the secondary hues, such as red, orange, pink, purple, and yellow combine to make different variations of color depending on how vivid the secondary hue it is.

Orange diamonds are sometimes synthetically enhanced to make them even more vivid then they are, which actually can make the value more than it already is. In grading the diamond it can be either faint, very light, light, fancy, fancy intense, fancy vivid, and fancy deep. Of course the collectors desire the fancy vivid and fancy deep, which are incredibly hard to find. The most sought after orange diamond is on exhibition in museums around the world. It is called the Pumpkin and was worn by Halle Berry at the 2002 Oscar awards. It is an intense vivid orange color, and weighs 5.54 carats, an amazing buy for any collector lucky enough to be able to purchase this rare and beautiful diamond. It is still to this day the largest fancy orange diamond ever recorded.

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The Cognac Diamond

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Cognac diamonds actually are just a form of brown diamonds. Because brown diamonds are less appealing to diamond buyers as a whole, marketing of brown diamonds as “cognac” or “champagne” colored have been widespread. Naming brown diamonds as “cognac” is an idea that is pushed by the Argyle diamond mine, which is located in Australia. They are one of the largest producers of brown diamonds in the world. By enhancing the image of the brown diamond, they are able to charge more for it because the demand for these diamonds has increased.

Most diamond sellers place cognac colored diamonds under the heading of champagne colored diamonds. This is also how the Argyle Diamond Mine has rated the diamonds coming from their mine. In this case, diamonds falling under the champagne heading are rated from C1 to C7 based on their color. C1 through C6 are variations of the champagne colored diamond, while C7 is reserved for the richer cognac color. If you look at champagne colors on a scale, diamonds on the C1 side are a light straw color and diamonds on the the C7 side are the “cognac” color. The cognac colored diamond is typically a dark orange-brown color. Because of its rich color, diamonds ranked as cognac colored are worth more.

Brown diamonds, of all shades, are found quite frequently throughout the world. Combined with the lack of appeal to the general consumer, they tend to be one of the least expensive diamond choices. The cognac diamond, however, is certainly a beautiful diamond and it might be an excellent choice for someone who enjoys the rich brown shade and does not wish to spend a fortune on a quality diamond.

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Clarity Enhanced Diamonds - The Laser Drilling Procedure

Saturday, May 28, 2011 by admin

Buying a diamond is not as easy as it used to be. Besides the basic 4 C’s to look for, now you have to make sure of the pedigree of the diamond you are buying. New issues are emerging that question the true value of the diamond.

This is the case with the clarity enhanced diamonds. Normally when a diamond has a visible imperfection, it would not be worth as much, if anything, to the buyer. Now, jewelers can use what is known as laser drilling, a technique that is used to drill out microscopic holes in the diamond to remove any imperfections and improve the clarity and grade of the diamond you are buying.

The dealers are drilling deep into the diamond to burn out any of the large black inclusions that may naturally form in a diamond. It evaporates the black imperfections making the stone more fragile to break. The process of laser drilling does leave small drill holes, but can be unnoticeable unless under a microscope.

Approximately 1 in 3 diamonds are laser drilled to add more value. In the 1990’s the Federal Trade Commission rewrote the jewelry laws stating that the jewelry industry no longer needed to disclose the fact that it was a clarity enhanced diamond. You can certainly ask your jeweler if it was laser drilled, but it is best to ask for a certificate from a gemological lab which most jewelers will have available to you if it is indeed a authentic diamond.

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Clarity Enhanced Diamonds

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The clarity of a diamond is an important factor in determining a diamond’s worth. Clarity is a measure of a the purity of a diamond or the number of flaws in the diamond. The most common inclusions in diamonds are fractures that appear to be a feather like, whitish spot inside the diamond.

A diamond with poor clarity does not reflect light in the same way as a more perfect stone. Light can not pass through an imperfection in a diamond. Instead, the flaw will reflect the light in several directions, making the impurity more noticeable. These less than perfect diamonds can be improved through clarity enhancement processes.

One common clarity treatment is laser drilling. An infrared laser is used to drill tiny holes into the diamond near the flaw. Once the laser reaches the impurity, the bad crystal is immersed in a sulfuric acid solution and dissolved away.

Another process often used to enhance the clarity of diamonds is fracture filling. Fracture filling usually follows the drilling process. A microscopic amount of a special reflective glass like material is inserted into the flawed area of the diamond. This material allows light to pass right through the imperfections, making them appear almost invisible.

Clarity enhancement does not necessarily improve the value of a diamond. A clarity enhanced diamond is less expensive than a similar naturally purer stone, but appears just as beautiful. The effects of the treatment processes can only be seen if closely examined under a microscope. Clarity enhanced diamonds are beautiful stones at a more affordable price.

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Clarity Enhanced Diamonds – Fracture Filling Techniques

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Clarity is considered one of the most important of the 4 C’s when looking for a diamond. Clarity is often enhanced, which is something you may not know even after you have purchased the diamond of your dreams.

There is a technique called fracture filling that has recently become popular, even though it originally was started in 1982 by Mr. Zvi Yehuda of Israel. It is a process that melts a crystal like substance into the cracks and fractures of a diamond that is unlikely to be of any value. It can also be filled with a type of molten glass made special by Yehuda, but no one can tell for sure, as the techniques are relatively unknown. We do know that it uses varying degrees of heat, and slowly fills in every crack on the surface possibly using a vacuum method to keep the stone from breaking completely from the heat. The stone is then cooled down and polished to remove any excess filling.

To an untrained eye, it is completely unnoticeable and often is only found under a microscope. There are some subtle ways in which you can tell if you have a clarity enhanced diamond, such as the flash effect, cloudy surfaces, gas bubbles in the diamond, as well as a cracked texture.

To make sure that your diamond is not fracture filled, you should ask for a written statement from your jeweler regarding any clarity enhancement techniques it may have used and any lab certificates it has.

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The Cutlet of a Diamond

Friday, May 27, 2011 by admin

The Cutlet of a Diamond

What is the cutlet part of the diamond? Simply put, it is the point at the bottom of the diamond. Diamond cutlets typically where hidden inside the diamond setting, but due the increase in popularity of open sided settings, the cutlet is often seen in a jewelry piece. Although it is often incorrectly referred to as the diamond “cutlet,” culet (pronounced kew-let) is the proper term. Typically a cutlet starts off flat while the other facets are being polished. This helps to prevent it from chipping. Typically this extra facet is “closed” into a point. Originally diamonds were not closed, instead they were left as with an extra facet on the bottom. However, there became a large demand for closed facet diamonds and this is now the standard. In fact, there are some people who believe that if you do not close a cutlet, then an evil spirit can enter into the diamond.

Having a small cutlet is preferable. The cutlet is parallel to the diamond’s table, which is the large flat surface on the top of the diamond. Large culets on a diamond are often very visible and you will be able to see it and whatever is beneath it through the table. A large cutlet often appears to be a large inclusion. This can really lessen the appearance of an otherwise beautiful diamond. Cutlets are rated according to size and you should be able to obtain this information when you purchase your diamond.

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The Facets of a Diamond

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Facets are flat surfaces on gemstones and diamonds. They are cut into the stone in order to improve the appearance. There are hundreds of ways that you can cut facets into a stone. The most common is the round brilliant cut which was created in 1919. There were originally 57 facets included in the round brilliant cut, but over time small improvements have been made, including one additional facet known as the culet. The culet is the facet at the bottom of the diamond, which typically comes to a point.

The purpose of a facet is to make the diamond shine by reflecting the light inside the diamond. Facets are cut throughout the diamond. In the brilliant cut diamond, there are 33 facets on the crown of the diamond. This is the upper half of the diamond. There are 25 facets in the pavilion of the diamond, which is the bottom half. Many diamonds are also faceted on the girdle, which is the middle of the diamond. The number of facets on the girdle vary greatly from 32 to 100 facets, and these facets are excluded from the facet total. Sometimes extra facets are included in the crown or the pavilion to help reduce imperfections in the diamond. However, a diamond’s cut should be symmetric and having extra facets might cause the diamond to be considered less valuable.

If a diamond is very small, it typically is cut with a lot fewer facets. If you cut a very small diamond with 58 facets, it would appear white or “milky.” This is because the point of a facet is to reflect the internal light and this can’t be accomplished with a small diamond. In the same manner, very large diamonds typically have extra facets cut into them to make the best use of the diamond’s size.

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The Girdle of a Diamond

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Where is the girdle on the diamond? The diamond girdle is fattest part of the diamond, located in the middle. Diamond girdles are rated according to their size. The smallest girdles are rated “extremely thin” and the largest girdles are considered “extremely thick.” Each has its own disadvantage. A girdle that is too thin is easily chipped. A thick girdle puts extra weight in the diamond, but it doesn’t make the diamond look larger. If you purchase a diamond that has a very thick girdle, you will pay for the extra weight but you won’t get a diamond that appears any larger.

When purchasing a diamond you want to find one that has an even medium girdle. However, if you get a pear shaped diamond, you will want a thick girdle at the tip of the diamond to help prevent damage to the diamond.

One thing to check when examining your diamond is if your girdle is faceted and polished. Sometimes a diamond cutter will skip this step in order to keep the diamond a larger weight or simply to save a step. However, a girdle that is polished and faceted will help reflect the internal light in the diamond better and make your diamond appear more attractive. A faceted diamond will not improve the grade of a diamond however. You also want to check for bearding or fringes, around the girdle. These are hair-like lines that occur around the girdle when the diamond was cut. If this is excessive, you will want to consider having the diamond polished or cut again.

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The Depth of a Diamond

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The depth of any diamond is extremely important in regards to its brilliance and value. The depth is defined as the height of the diamond from the culet to the table. You can usually find the two different measures of depth on your diamond grading report. The actual depth is done in millimeters and the depth percentage which shows you how deep the diamond is as compared to the width.

The depth percentage is important but only tells half the story. Where the depth lies within the diamond is equally important, specifically the depth of the pavilion. It should be deep enough to allow light in to move around the diamond, but still be reflecting out the light at the proper angle adding to the brilliance. Diamond cutters must take the stone and remove weight from the original rough diamond to get the right proportions in order to achieve the effect that labels a diamond Ideal or Very Fine cut. In this cut the diamond will exhibit a white table reflection that appears to be in the middle of the diamond.

Depth percentages should be between 59% and 63% to be considered an Ideal or Very Fine Cut. You can have a higher percentage of cut in other diamonds that may require it, but higher is not always better in certain cuts. For instance in Princess cut diamonds the depth percentage is usually between 75% and 78%. Lowering that particular cut to even 65% would essentially ruin the stone.

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The Table of a Diamond

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The table of a diamond is the upper flat facet of the stone. The size of the table establishes the look of the stone, meaning how great the brilliance is, which is very important to the value of the stone. The greater the table the less fire it has, which is the variety and intensity of the color that is reflected. This is also what makes it more rare and valuable.

Table proportions range from 46.4% to 65.5%. They can go lower and higher but the value would be greatly reduced depending on the cut of the stone. The recommended table percentage is between 53% and 58% which is considered Ideal. You still will get an Excellent look if you stay between 58.1% and 60%. To find the percentage you take what the table measures (for example if it 5.7 mm) and what the total diameter measures (for example, 10.0 mm) and multiply to get the table percentage (57%.) If the height is significantly smaller than 58.5% then you might find the diamond too shallow. If it is larger than 61% you may find the stone too chunky, taking away from its beauty. Many respected table graders recommend the 60/60 rule. If you keep the depth and the table at about 60% for each, you will have a brilliant and beautiful diamond.

Just recently you are able to find more Ideal cut diamonds because of the demand for the more perfect diamond. They are lowering in price a bit, due to the level in which they are requested by consumers.

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The Symmetry of a Diamond

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Diamond symmetry is an important part of the diamond finish, but not necessarily more important than the overall beauty of the diamond itself. The symmetry of the diamond refers to the exactitude of the shape and how the facets are arranged, including misshapen and extra facets. Symmetry is essential to higher clarity graded diamonds, as it increases the rarity and value.

The labs grade symmetry in four separate grades, Excellent, Very Good, Good, and lastly Fair or Poor. The basis of this grading includes examination by microscope to ensure all facets meet perfectly. There are just a few diamonds that actually get the grade Excellent or Very Good, which are flawless diamonds that really just don’t exist except in a few rare instances. Diamonds that receive the grade of Good are often considered to be the most purchased diamonds and offer exceptional beauty. Diamonds with Fair to Poor symmetry should be avoided due to the lackluster brilliance, and lack of value.

Polishing the rough stone has a great deal to do with symmetry of the diamond. The goal is to cut the heaviest, most valuable diamond possible and this often means polishing a diamond with imperfect symmetry. The polished diamond is often slightly off round, have tilting of the table, or off centering of the culet. The polishing avoids inclusions and helps to achieve the perfect weight, such as 1.00 carat exactly. Contrary to popular belief, diamond cutters often use their skills to create imperfect symmetry, rather than it occurring because they do not contain the skills.

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The Finish of a Diamond

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The finish on a diamond is more of an aesthetic term rather than a term that would change the value of a diamond. The finish just refers to the polish on the external part of the stone. Most diamonds that you will buy will already have a polished finish to them to give them the sparkle and clean look that you would want in a stone. Diamonds are essentially created for the commercial market, so you everything from mining, to cleaving, to setting it on your ring is done to make the stone more aesthetically beautiful. This is what polishing achieves, when it is well cut and polished, it is said to have a beautiful finish.

Many people think that the finish of a diamond refers to the coating of a diamond. Coating is a treatment done to change the color of a diamond. A finish is a treatment to smooth down the diamond and make it look better to the naked eye, but will not actually change the appearance of the stone. It can be done with a rough surface in certain ways to achieve the look that the customer would enjoy. It is simply just a thorough polishing or cleaning. A normal diamond can have a smooth or granular finish. Neither is better than the other, it is just up to your personal preference. Most diamonds, however, are done in a smooth finish to make it more reflective. Frequent cleanings can help maintain the appearance of the diamond finish.

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Diamond Polish

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To polish a diamond is exactly as it sounds. You take a rough stone that has been set and start the process of rubbing the stone to make it smooth and shiny, as well as reducing any appearance of flaws or imperfections. The polish effects the way the light is able to pass through the diamond, and influences the look of the diamonds brilliance.

Polish is graded the same way that symmetry is, Excellent, Very Good, Good, Poor or Fair. When a polish has a grade of Poor or Fair it means that the facets may reduce the intensity of the light that is reflected from a diamond, which means less brilliance or sparkle. They could also have polish lines that are blurring the surface of the diamond giving it a very dirty look. Every diamond cutter, even the most skilled, can run into variances in the grain that no amount of polishing will remove. It is simply a defect that cannot be removed. No amount of cleaning will ever take this look away because the lines are reducing the amount of light that enters the diamond.

It is found that most people want a diamond that has an Excellent or Very Good polish, because even at the Good level the diamond constantly looks like it needs cleaning. Since polishing is graded, it is best to get a GIA (Gemological Institute of America) certificate in order to certify that you have the proper grading to ensure you have the best brilliance you can afford.

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The Fluorescence of a Diamond

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Diamond Fluorescence is a hotly debated topic among the diamond industry, because some feel strongly that it has an impact on a value of the diamond, whereas others feel that it makes very little difference on the appearance of the diamond. What diamond fluorescence refers to is the ability of the diamond to emit a soft colored glow when put under an ultraviolet light, or black light as it may be called.

It is found that if a stone has a grade from J to M a moderate amount of fluorescence actually makes the stone more attractive to people because with these color grades the fluorescence helps to cancel out some of the yellow coloring. This makes it appear more colorless then it actually is. However if you have a stone with a grade from D to F, which means it has a high color, fluorescence is thought to get in the way of the flow of the light. The makes the diamonds appear oily or dirty looking. This may not actually be true, but it is perceived to be true by some of the diamond industry, hence the lower price of the diamond. In some cases D to F stones should not be bought anyhow with any fluorescence just because of the possible discoloration but again, that is still up for debate.

In general, the average fluorescence makes absolutely no difference when the diamond is looked at flat side up. You should not let the amount of fluorescence influence your choice of diamonds.

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Star Lady Automatic Moonphase Diamonds Watch

Tuesday, May 3, 2011 by admin

While most of us these days use our cell phones to tell the time, a truly sophisticated woman still knows the value of a timeless, elegant watch. And what better a watch to have than one that is not only a fine piece of craftsmanship, but one that also is beautifully accentuated with diamonds? This is where the latest watch from Montblanc comes in - the Star Lady Automatic Moonphase Diamonds Watch.

This elegant timepiece houses an ETA 4810/908 automatic movement in a 36mm, 18k white gold case. Other features of the watch include a mother of pearl dial, moonphase display, pointer date display, feuille hands, applied Breguet numerals, and 8 beautiful diamond hour markers. Securing these precious features is flat sapphire crystal with a special anti-glare coating, a sapphire back, and a fluted crown.

Priced at $10,175 USD, this is surely an investment you’ll want protected. Montblanc has gone ahead and made the the Star Lady resistant to water up to 30m, which will surely relieve any worries of splashes at the sink, or even an accidental drop in the toilet, bath, or any other body of water.

montblancstarlady.jpg

This beautiful time piece can be yours for the aforementioned price, and is available with a white or blue alligator wrist strap featuring an 18k white gold tang buckle.

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